Popular Jewelry of the 19th Century: 1850 to 1900

What do Victorian Revival, Art Nouveau, or Arts and Crafts mean in jewelry design?  Where did these styles come from?  This post is a very quick dance through the main jewelry styles from 1850-1900. Hopefully it will also put into context the revival styles in 20th century jewelry as well.

The second half of the 19th century was marked by many "revival" styles.  In a reaction to rapid urbanization, the spread of manufacturing and mechanization and as scientific progress began to undermine the bedrock of culturally "known truths," fashion, art and design turned back to what were thought of as simpler, more solid times. There are so many "revival" styles that it seems an "anywhere but here" mentality dominated.

Gothic Revival

Gothic Revival was the main revival movement.  Beginning in the 1830s it looked to the medieval period as a time of purity and a simpler lifestyle --motifs popular from the 12th to 16th centuries formed the base of the movement.  A definitive emphasis on nature and a turning away from industrialization, was very important. Gothic Revival produced a wealth of other revival movements -- Renaissance Revival, Rococo Revival, Romanticism in America, and many others.

Gothic Revival had a profound impact on art, architecture and of course, jewelry. Turning to nature and towards an imagined romanticism, natural motifs were seen in all aspects of Gothic design. Other prominent motifs were heraldic shields, medieval lettering and crosses.  Chimeras and other mythical creatures were also part of Gothic design.

19th Century Gothic Revival Jewelry

19th Century Gothic Revival Pendant

19th Century Gothic Revival Cuff

Arts and Crafts Movement

The Arts and Crafts Movement grew out of Gothic Revival and was a fierce reaction against mass commercialism. The motifs are very similar to Gothic Revival -- looking to nature as the true source for creativity.  An emphasis on hand made items was at the heart of Arts and Crafts, which was associated with everything from architecture to textiles and jewelry.  Some of the jewelry was handmade. Louis Comfort Tiffany was a leading light in the Arts and Crafts Movement. His legacy lives on in bright turquoise gift boxes and exquisite jewelry. And a certain movie with the the lovely Audrey Hepburn!

19th Century Tiffany Jewelry Set

Arts and Crafts Pendant

Arhtur Gaskin Arts and Crafts Brooch

Mourning Jewelry

Queen Victoria was left in a permanent state of mourning after Prince Albert's untimely death -- out of this tragic situation rose up an entire industry of mourning jewelry.  Mass production made the jewelry affordable to the newly emergent middle class. It was extremely popular. Sentimental jewelry was very closely associated with mourning jewelry.  Although primarily a British form of jewelry, it did become popular in other countries.

Gold Filled Mourning Bar Brooch, Joys Shop, Etsy

Gold Victorian Mourning Locket, Fiona Kenny Antiques, Etsy

Victorian Mourning Brooch from Victorian Sentiments, Etsy

Mixed with elements from Gothic Revival, major motifs in mourning jewelry were heavy black enamel, black and jet (whitby,which is a type of coal), lockets and hairwork jewelry. Necklaces and bracelets were woven out of human hair, though not necessarily from the deceased. Human hair was actually imported to Britain for use in making jewelry! Carved cameos and silhouettes were also popular as a way to remember a loved one, either living or deceased.

Victorian Mourning Locket

Hair Brooch, A Magnificent Mess, Etsy

Pieces of jewelry became bigger in order to accommodate Victorian fashions and the rise of photography as an important new technology. Mourning and sentimental jewelry like lockets had to be big enough to hold photographs. Large bracelets, pendants and such were popular. Mourning became an elaborate ritual during the Victorian period; broken into phases of months and years, certain fashions and jewelry were worn during each phase of mourning.

Art Nouveau

Towards the end of the century, the Art Nouveau Movement began.  The design elements grew out of Arts and Crafts, but it was a forward looking design movement -- tired of Victorian stuffiness and endless revivalism it looked to the future and embraced commercialism as a vehicle for design.  Main themes were nature, twining botanics, peacocks, moths, dragonflies. Women set free from corsets with long tendrils and sensuous curves were an obvious reaction against the confines of Victorian sensibilities. Art Nouveau advertising posters are another sign of the movement's embrace of the new commercialism.  Rene' Lalique is one of the best known Art Nouveau jewelry designers of the late 19th century.  The Art Nouveau design movement is known as Jugendstil in Scandinavian countries.

Benjamin Bardon Dragonfly circa 1900

19th Century Georges Fouquet Pendant

Art Nouveau Brooch, Fifis Finds, Etsy

Art Nouveau Brooch, Morning Glorious, Etsy

This article has just scratched the surface of the fascinating trends in 19th century jewelry. Please visit the references listed below if you wish to read further about the various styles and the play of history, culture and jewelry fashions.

References:  Collector's Weekly: Antique Mourning Jewelry
                        The Art of Mourning: Gothic Revival in Culture and Jewellry, Part 2
                       The Art of Mourning: Gothic Revival in Culture and Jewellry, Part 3
                       The Art Story.org; Art Nouveau Synopsis
                        Victoria and Albert Museum:Style Guide; Gothic Revival