Monday, November 17, 2014

Classical Greece, Napoleon, and the Rise of Britain -- Women's Fashion 1800-1850

As anyone who is a student of fashion knows, change is the only constant!  Fashion eras come and go, and come again.  Changes in fashion are tied to the larger cultural and social milieu. This is certainly the case in the first half of the 19th century as first France and then Britain had ascendant empires.

When Napoleon returned to France from his campaigns in Greece and Egypt, he brought change.  The fashion ideal was a return to the pure, simple dress of Classical Greek civilization.  (And yes, it was Napoleon himself who hugely influenced late 18th c. and early 19th c. fashion in France).

A dress known as the chemisette was white (lawn, batiste, muslin or silk) with simple embroidered patterns from Classical Greece was the height of fashion in France at the turn of the century, from the late 1700s through the 1800s. Undergarments consisted of flesh-toned pantaloons and not much more. Etruscan and Egyptian influences eventually were added to the chemisette.  (There seems to have been an Egyptian Revival before the 20th c. Egyptian Revival!).

As the British Empire's influence rose, English styles became more popular. Waistlines fell, then they became very tiny, embellishments became the norm, and full skirts made a return. But of course, many changes in fashion are just boredom with an older look and creative experiment with new design and fabric.  It's not all about the Emperor!  And this is just a short blog post!  So, a very abbreviated run through 50 years of astonishing changes in women's fashion.

Brief Highlights of Women's Dress from 1800 -1850


1797 -1809 - Simplicity and Classical Greek Influence

Simple sheer white dresses with empire waist
cotton lawn, muslin, batiste
Very short, cap sleeves
Indian shawls
Pelisse -- a riding coat that was the mainstay for decades
Long gloves
Colored, pointed shoes or slippers
 Picture is above



1810s: Regency Period  - Same Dress Silhouette With More Adornment

Heavier fabrics - velvet, satin

Decorative borders of ruffles and flowers
The Spencer -- a shrug like coat
High, Empire waist




1820s: Very Different Dress Silhouette 

Much lower waistlines
Heavy embellishment
Colors and Pattern
Bustle
             Big sleeves 




1830s: A Decade of Extremes

Sleeves widened to extreme proportions 
leg of lamb, gigot, imbecile sleeves!
Skirts even wider
Smaller waistlines -- heavy corsets 









1840s: Not So Extreme

Sleeves become tamer
Tiny waist
Full skirt and sleeves
Early Victorian dress










If this era in women's fashion excites you, please check out the sources below.  The details known about specific changes and how French and English struggles for supremacy influenced fashion is a great story.

Sources:  Regency Fashion 1800s Costume History, Pauline Wilson Thomas for Fashion-Era.com
                Prezi: Costume History 1797-1850
                All Images from Pinterest





No comments :

Post a Comment